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IS there any reason why red acro turn green


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#1 mrblur

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Posted 03 October 2007 - 04:44 PM

my acro is turing from red color to a green color. I heard that when your acro turn to green color it means that it is due to Cheap MH. I am using Phillips MH 400 w or is it due to any parameter? Because my parameter is quite fine with NO3 of 20.

I have 2 pieces of red arcro and both of them are turing green.

Please advise.

Thank you

#2 Tangs

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Posted 03 October 2007 - 05:02 PM

Perform partical water changes to bring down NO3 as 20 is quite high liao. wink.gif
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#3 Chris

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Posted 03 October 2007 - 05:04 PM

Red turn green, green turn purple, yellow turn green, purple turn green. Always happens. As long as don't turn brown. Most of the time, brown doesn't turn into anything and stay brown.

Light specturm is important. Don't know of any philip bulbs that are made for marine aquarium use. Normal brands are BLV, XM, hamilton, Geissmann, reeflux etc.
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#4 Vanquish

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Posted 03 October 2007 - 06:35 PM

I'm not sure if the PAR on the Phillips bulb is suitable, so you might wanna use a better bulb... sometimes it also depends of the kind of acro you're keeping... some of the acros are notorious for turning green...

Otherwise, observe the levels of nutrients in water and try to bring it down... smile.gif

#5 mrblur

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Posted 04 October 2007 - 11:42 AM

Is there any recommended brand for 400 w MH?

should i use 14 K or 20 K?

#6 Chris

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Posted 04 October 2007 - 11:52 AM

For 400W, go for 14K. Colour more balanced. 20K is a little on the blue side.

I have tried Hamilton, BLV and XM. Cheapest is XM and most exp is Geissmann.
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#7 angelfishlover

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Posted 04 October 2007 - 12:00 PM

Try reeflux cause i hear good comments from it.
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#8 wonder

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Posted 04 October 2007 - 12:50 PM

QUOTE(mrblur @ Oct 4 2007, 11:42 AM) View Post

Is there any recommended brand for 400 w MH?

should i use 14 K or 20 K?


suggest that you improve on your water condition first before make any other changes. 20 is consider pretty high. The brand of test kit you use is also important for Nitrate (i Suggest Salifert). Make sure your PO4 is low as well.

Lighting is important but IMO, water condition is critical for corals color. Don't think any bulb can do wonders to a high nutrients tank. JMO
My 2 cents.

Edited by wonder, 04 October 2007 - 12:51 PM.


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Posted 04 October 2007 - 01:48 PM

QUOTE(mrblur @ Oct 4 2007, 11:42 AM) View Post

Is there any recommended brand for 400 w MH?

should i use 14 K or 20 K?


If I'm on 400W, I would try the Radium 20KK... many reefers in US use it as the colouration of the bulb is whitish blue (something I like) and the PAR is strong...

Not sure if the bulb is available here in Singapore but its worth the search... else I would go for a Hamilton 20KK... smile.gif

#10 Tangs

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Posted 04 October 2007 - 02:04 PM

Just in case you need to know what is the Kelvin rating on the bulb equates to:

10,000k representing 10-30 Ocean Depth Feet (ODF)
14,000k representing 30-60 Ocean Depth Feet (ODF)
20,000k representing 60-90 Ocean Depth Feet (ODF)


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#11 mrblur

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Posted 04 October 2007 - 03:09 PM

QUOTE(Tangs @ Oct 4 2007, 03:04 PM) View Post

Just in case you need to know what is the Kelvin rating on the bulb equates to:

10,000k representing 10-30 Ocean Depth Feet (ODF)
14,000k representing 30-60 Ocean Depth Feet (ODF)
20,000k representing 60-90 Ocean Depth Feet (ODF)



What does these mean?

what i understand about the Kelvin is the color.
20,000 k will be very blue which will affect color of the corals because it is not a natural color it may irritate the coral

14,000 k will be more to the white side then blue. more natural so will help the coral to grow faster

10,000 k will be totally white nearly yellow which is very natural so coral grow very fast but your tank will look so yellow which is not good looking i guess.

If i am wrong please correct me.

Thanks

#12 Tangs

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Posted 04 October 2007 - 05:58 PM

Let me re-phase again regarding Kelvin ........ It is actually Color temperature, or degrees Kelvin (°K), is a number assigned to a bulb to describe the color of light it emits.

The lower the number the warmer or more to the orange/yellow side of the light spectrum is its appearance. The higher the number the cooler or more to the blue side of the light spectrum.

Having said that certain brand emits the light as close as possible but not necessary the same.

Here are some °K examples and their corresponding color descriptions:

3000K = yellowish

5000K = noon sun

10000K = white with blue

20000K = blue


Taking another step forward since MH produces produce the proper spectrum of light to stand alone and it is common to achieve full enjoyment out of viewing your fish and corals in the colors as they would appear in the ocean at depths of about twenty feet or less, we always supplement them with:

10,000K MH = can stand alone; actinic enhances spectrum

14,000K MH = can stand alone; no actinic necessary

20000K MH = supplement with daylight or 50/50


IMO, most of us would be using either 10K, 12K or 14K unless you have deep sea coral species in your tank which needs 20K lighting to thrive.

This is just my opinion and others please feel free to comment. smile.gif
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#13 mrblur

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Posted 05 October 2007 - 11:24 AM

QUOTE(Tangs @ Oct 4 2007, 06:58 PM) View Post

Let me re-phase again regarding Kelvin ........ It is actually Color temperature, or degrees Kelvin (°K), is a number assigned to a bulb to describe the color of light it emits.

The lower the number the warmer or more to the orange/yellow side of the light spectrum is its appearance. The higher the number the cooler or more to the blue side of the light spectrum.

Having said that certain brand emits the light as close as possible but not necessary the same.

Here are some °K examples and their corresponding color descriptions:

3000K = yellowish

5000K = noon sun

10000K = white with blue

20000K = blue
Taking another step forward since MH produces produce the proper spectrum of light to stand alone and it is common to achieve full enjoyment out of viewing your fish and corals in the colors as they would appear in the ocean at depths of about twenty feet or less, we always supplement them with:

10,000K MH = can stand alone; actinic enhances spectrum

14,000K MH = can stand alone; no actinic necessary

20000K MH = supplement with daylight or 50/50


IMO, most of us would be using either 10K, 12K or 14K unless you have deep sea coral species in your tank which needs 20K lighting to thrive.

This is just my opinion and others please feel free to comment. smile.gif


So Tang what you are saying is that the kelvin is just for pleasure as it determine the color? not really affect the corals then.

#14 angelfishlover

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Posted 05 October 2007 - 11:33 AM

QUOTE(wonder @ Oct 4 2007, 12:50 PM) View Post

suggest that you improve on your water condition first before make any other changes. 20 is consider pretty high. The brand of test kit you use is also important for Nitrate (i Suggest Salifert). Make sure your PO4 is low as well.

Lighting is important but IMO, water condition is critical for corals color. Don't think any bulb can do wonders to a high nutrients tank. JMO
My 2 cents.


Wonder is right.Check po4 too.
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#15 Tangs

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Posted 05 October 2007 - 12:34 PM

QUOTE(mrblur @ Oct 5 2007, 11:24 AM) View Post

So Tang what you are saying is that the kelvin is just for pleasure as it determine the color? not really affect the corals then.


You are asking a difficult question and imo, the answer is yes and no because lighting is a very important equipment of our marine aquarium but understanding the function, requirements and reasons for lighting is a must for serious aquarist like us as it also affects the corals we're having in the tank. smile.gif

Another reason is that different bulbs are designed for different situations and for example, you must consider the tank dimensions, depth you are trying to simulate, and whether or not supplemental bulbs, multi-staging and/or dimming will be used. smile.gif

The amount of light depends on what type of livestock you want to keep and say that the height of your tank is of 24" or less (simultaing shallower water) with a large variety of corals then you won't need a 20,000K MH lighting. In this sceanario, then I think a 10,000K along with T5 actinic should be enough and more pleasing to the eyes when viewing the tank. biggrin2.gif
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